Everyone who has been to Italy has an opinion about it and everyone feels that they did it the right way. They found a tiny restaurant no one knows about, they found a deal on a hotel room or a way to beat the lines at the Vatican. Italy has a way of making you feel that way. It works its magic and whispers in your ear that you are its only lover, its only conqueror and that you and it will forever have this moment in time. It is incredibly familiar, new and old all at the same time. Like a pair of broken in house slippers that you forgot you owned, but am so glad you rediscovered.
At least, once you have left its mixture of chaos, construction and caprese, that is.
While Cinque Terre is still considered a vacation spot for the"in the know American," apparently,a lot of Germans, French and Americans over 50 are in the know. And even in October, at every turn, we saw handfuls of Germans with their high tech (and unnecessary) hiking poles and at every restaurant, we heard baffled Americans, when at the request of water, were cornered with the question, Con gas?
We stayed at Manuel's Guesthouse where there is a terrace kitchen as well as beer on tap, white wine and red wine for 1 Euro each. Chris and I made several trips to the grocery store down the 200 plus steep steps and he cooked me some wonderful pancetta pasta with tomato sauce. We had the same view as the fat cats, but for probably a fourth of the price.
In the mornings, the charming Lorenzo would serve me a complimentary cappucino. As the village woke up, I listened to the church bell toll and sipped my coffee and meditated upon the new day.
We stayed in Monterosso al Mare, the most northern of the five villages. The first day we hiked from Monterosso to Vernazza, the next town over. After 90 minutes, many more steep steps, Vernazza emerged, unfolding itself, its multi-colored houses stacking one upon another against the bejewelled Ligurian Sea.
We did more hikes thereafter, each hike outlining the terraced hills and each with an ocean view. Walking around the small villages in the evening, I glanced at the faces of the locals, greeting them with Sera and happily being greeted back in the same manner. It is a real privilege to be in their villages, once so isolated by the Ligurian mountains, but now more accessible due to tourism.
To sum up Cinque Terre, it is about eating, relaxing, beaches, hiking and romance. That's it and please don't anyone add anything more to it.
Next stop, Rome.
And what is Rome all about?
The meeting of the old and the new. Unabashedly.
Still, there were so many sights to see. Rome is not a huge place, as for as the historic center is concerned. I was there in 2003 and as I trolled the streets alone, I was surprised that with my basic Italiano and a good map, I covered everything in two days as far as the historic sights.
It was wonderful to see Chris' fascination with everything. The Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, St. Peter's, the Vatican, Piazza Navona ... . Our two favorite stops are definitely not in everyone's guide book.
Numero uno, the McDonald's near the Piazza di Spagna. Clean bathrooms, totally spacious, and hands down the best McDonald's you will EVER walk into. Modelled to look like a Roman building with its marble facades and granite table tops, it is outfitted with a gelato bar, a fountain, terraced seating and an automatic trash compactor called the Super Lizzy.
Numero due, the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks. On Via Veneto near the Piazza Barberini and close to my hotel in 2003, I stumbled upon this out of sheer curiosity. For a small donation, you can visit with 4000 monks. Never mind that they are dead and their mortal remains are arranged very artistically upon the vaulted ceilings in the basement of the Santa Maria della Concezione church. It is actually very beautiful.
Upon entering, the guide made it very clear that it was a holy sight, asking me to cover my shoulders. No pictures were allowed either. Following behind us, a young American (he had his baseball cap worn backwards. Sorry, is that a stereotype?), asked, "Is this where all the bones are?" The guide smiled gently and said, "I prefer to call this the Crypt of the Capuchin Friars." Ahem. Touché.
Though we couldn't take any photographs, here is a link that will describe it all. But when, in Rome, you must take a trip to the Crypt. After all, like it says on the engraving, What we are now, you will also become. Apparently, it really is the eternal city. Even after death, your bones can be rearranged and tourists will still pay to see you.
As for us, we are still well and alive, another tourist on this earth. After three countries, five cities, five accomodations, three plane rides, 14 hours on the train in two weeks, we were ready for a real vacation.
This past week, Chris stayed in Northern California with me at my mom's house. We got so bored we started watching PBS and loved it every moment of it. My mother greeted me with open arms and had a big 'Welcome Home' sign for me. Some have said to me that I am going back to my normal life now. But what is normal? Through my travels, I grew to understand that everyone has a different standard for normal.
We will leave behind different things in the world and it will make different impressions on people. For example, inRome, many were awed and inspired at St. Peter's church, while I found it memorable but discomforting. Meanwhile I was truly moved to be standing in the holding cell of Peter and Paul which is nothing more than a dark water cistern with thick two foot stone walls.
So as for me, normal was a small bunk bed, a small closet, and living less than a hundred yards from a hospital and a two minute walk to work. And now, normal will be redefined. And as much as it was redefined once on a hospital ship docked in West Africa, it will surely be redefined back here in the good ole U S of A.
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